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Tuesday 20 December 2011

Stare Mesto, Mala Strana and Josefov


 Ciao!

I'm finally getting around to posting more Praha pics.

On day 2 in Prague I walked around Mala Strana and Josefov, but the day began with a trip to Old Town Square. Old Town is also called Stare Mesto. Pretty much every day began here. There was a big street fair going on for St. Martin's Day, with food and wine and people everywhere, and between that, and the crowds gathering to see the astronomical clock, it was pretty happenin'.

Here are some shots of the square that morning as well as some interesting things I saw on the way to the square.

Church Near My Pension

Lenin Restaurant

Ready for a Revolution with Hammer, Sickle, Beer, Duck, and Dumplings


Antique Touring Cars

Tyn Church Towers from Across Square


Painted Details on a Building Front in Old Town Square

Row of Painted Buildings Flanking the Clock in Old Town Square

Red Building

Window Details

Building Facing the Clock in Old Town Square

I find I have no trouble walking amidst buildings like this and imagining that I'm walking through the square 600 years ago. I felt like the architecture was that evocative of the past.

Prague has an astronomical clock in Old Town Square, and the hoards gather to watch it. I recall seeing the one in Strasbourg as a child, and being amongst the hoards in Munich to watch the one there. It's funny how many people will drag a tripod into a crowded public place, while on vacation. More power to them.  ;)

Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square

Close Up of Astronomical Clock

Old Town Square is really beautiful and striking (no pun intended) despite the crowds and the tripods. One rounds the corner into the Square and sees the striking towers of the Our Lady of Tyn Church. The Town Hall, which houses the clock, has a similar tower with the pointy black spires on it. The buildings in the square are a rainbow of colors---yellow, black, sand, red, many with figures painted on them or built into the stone work.

The clock is fascinating and I almost regret I don't possess a tripod and the requisite photographic skills to do it justice. The clock face is flanked by carved wooden figures of kings, saints, and a skeleton. In Medieval art the skeleton and the skull always represent the transitory nature of our life here on Earth. The clock face depicts the sun and moon and planets. Here are some shots of the clock details including the skeleton.

Figures Flaking the Astronomical Clock

Dancing Skeleton Flanking the Clock Face

Details of Carving On Clock


Immediately before striking the hour music plays and the figures on the front dance and turn back and forth in their places. Then the clock strikes, and a person dressed as a Renaissance trumpeter who blows a coronet from the balcony to the ooohs and awes of the spectators. It's quite a sight, touristy thought it may be. People who believe that technological achievements belong to the modern age have never seen one of these clocks. It reminds me that man has always possessed talent and skill, and the people who think the statues on Easter Island were put there by aliens because "humans couldn't have been that advanced way back then" just don't realize what human beings have always been capable of. Intelligence and ingenuity doesn't belong only to the 20th century.

After this trip into the Square, which happened to coincide, quite accidentally, with the striking of the clock. After witnessing an example of man's ingenuity I walked to Mala Strana.

Mala Strana
Mala Strana is the neighborhood across the Vltava River from Old Town. It's at the base of the hill where the castle is and it's home to something known as the John Lennon Wall which is where I made my pilgrimage.

Getting to Mala Strana entailed crossing the Vltava, and I chose to do this on one of Prague's most famous institutions, the Charles Bridge. This pedestrian bridge was the first bridge across the Vltava River, and it was built by Emperor Charles the IV. I understand it was called "the bridge" until other bridges were built, and then at that time it became known as the Charles.

The bridge is like a circus, carnival and street fair all rolled into one. Vendors come out to sell their wares, street performers dance, sing, and play the violin. Beggars sit prostrate on the ground with their caps in front of them hoping for some coins. It's a fun place to hang out even thought it is pretty touristy. It can get pretty crowded at times. Here are some shots of the bridge and the river that I took while crossing over to the Mala Strana.

Charles Bridge Tower in Stare Mesto

Charles Bridge Tower

Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge

Prague Castle

Crowds on the Charles

The Vltava Looking Towards Mala Strana

An Organ Grinder on the Charles Bridge

The Mala Strana


The Czech people are great lovers and art and music and John Lennon is something of a hero due both to his amazing talent as a songwriter and musician as well as his pacifist activities and beliefs. Remember the bed-in for peace?



The story goes that after John Lennon's assassination on December 8, 1980, a painting of him appeared on a wall in the Mala Strana, soon followed by graffiti honoring him. The Communist government opposed to this display and had it removed. It sprang up again, and once again it was removed. This continued to happen and it seems nothing could be done to keep these images off the wall. This went on until finally any attempts to remove it were abandoned.

The John Lennon Wall is on a quiet little street that heads down towards the river. There are some beautiful trees nearby and when I visited it there were people walking there dogs quietly in front of it. It is a very peaceful and inspiring sight. Imagine.

Beautiful Trees Approaching the John Lennon Wall

John Lennon Poster in Someone's Window

The Original John Lennon Painting that Would Not Disappear










It's a very peaceful, beautiful, and interesting spot. Quite fitting.

Here are some closeups of the trees and of leaves on the ground.


Imagine All the People Sharing All the World
I wandered around the Mala Strana little bit longer, then mosied back towards the bridge, snacked on a slice of pizza that cost about 35 cents and then went back to the pension to regroup. It was really crowded and the sun kept going behind the clouds, but I took a few pictures of some buildings and statues in this neighborhood.

Church in Mala Strana 
Statue in Male Strana

Here are some more pictures of the river which I crossed to get back to the pension.






Vendor in Front of Charlest Bridge Tower

 A little later I headed out again and wandered around Josefov, which is the old Jewish Quarter. It was getting dark and I didn't get to search out as many sites as I would have liked, but I did locate the old synagogue, which was closed, but I got some shots of the cemetery through the gate. It's very old and the graves are piled up almost on top of one another. I would like to go back and explore the graveyard itself.

Here is the synagogue and the cemetery.

Old Synagogue in Prague 
Gravestones Piled One On Top of the Other in the Old Jewish Cemetery
After supper I wandered around through Josefov, past all the chic stores that you find everywhere from Mid-Town Manhattan to Paris, and back through Old Town Square towards the pension. I lingered in the square to watch some of the festivities then headed back to hit the sack and get ready for another day.