Caroline's Visit

Hello Everybody,

My sister, Caroline, came to visit two weeks ago. She arrived on Friday the 14th, and I met her at the airport.

I didn't quite appreciate how lonely I had been until she arrived. I have made friends with my neighbors; the retired man who lives opposite me waves to me on the street or if I see him at the market; my Korean neighbors next door ask about my job and comment on whether I have on a thick enough coat, or tell me they like my haircut; the man at the meat counter in the market smiles more broadly each time I expand my Hungarian vocabulary, yet continues to be very patient with me, speaking to me more slowly and being more deliberate in giving me the price than he is with other customers, even though he speaks no English. I have made friends with some work colleagues; but overall, everybody in my sphere is either a neighbor, a busy student, or a busy PhD candidate with three jobs, so I don't really have a lot of acquaintances that have time to hang out. People email me, they give me tips on where to eat, where I can visit a cool design fair or go see some interesting contemporary dance, but it's not the same as having my girlfriends nearby, or knowing the wait staff at the Burrito. Not the same as sitting on the sofa with Jimmy teasing the cat or reliving my day. So, it was really nice to have a visitor, and such a cool visitor at that.

I arrived at the airport and there was nobody there. Then, 12 planes landed at once, and I had to watch bout 85 Canadian senior citizens disembark and start asking questions immediately of the local populace (where ATM machines were, where their hotel was)--- complete strangers mind you, most of whom didn't speak much English. It was cool in way, though, because I rarely get to meet people at the airport so I felt like someone in a movie excitedly waiting to get a glimpse of a loved one they haven't seen in ages. And I guess I was.

We took a cab back to Budapest, dropped some stuff off at my apartment, and went and checked into her hotel. Note on the stuff: Caroline rocks! She brought me Advil, Tylenol, Aleve, Pepto Bismol, vitamins, some RX's that weren't ready when I left home, Ace bandages for my sprained ankle, as well as the Fellowship of the Ring, A Wrinkle in Time, some new Dansko's, and a few other sundries like underwear, socks, a hand-me-down fleece, and some clothing from home. Yes they have Advil here. No, they don't sell bottles of 200 for $5 like they do at Wal Mart. You pay about $10 for a pack of 6, and if you go to the Patika (Pharmacia) more than once in a week to buy more they act like you're in there trying to get your fix on. OTC here is NOT OTC!

Caroline had booked rooms for two nights at the NY Palace Hotel. Swanky joint! Here are some pictures. Some of these were actually taken the day before I left for Romania. I had coffee there in their Salon that day, and sampled their pastries at a friend's recommendation. Let's just say it's a good thing I'm not diabetic. I felt faint after eating the pastry sampler, which was comprised of three types of cake paired with ice cream or fruit (predominantly ice cream), and I didn't even eat half of what they served me!  :)

So here you have the beautiful NY Palace Hotel on Erzsebet korut.

New York Palace Hotel from Across Erzsebet Korut

Sculpture Across the Street from the New York Palace

Faun Lamps Outside New York Palace Hotel

Closeup of Faun Lamps Outside New York Palace Hotel

The hotel has an interesting history. Like many "palace hotels" in Budapest (think Four Seasons Gresham) this structure was actually built by an insurance company, the New York Life Insurance Company. Many of these palaces were built by banks if not insurance companies.

This palace was built in 1894, designed by architect Alojos Hauszmann. Designers Floris Korb and Kalman Giergl helped designed the inside, including the gallery, the atrium and the rooms, and the salon. If you can believe it (and believe it) this building was nationalized during the Communist Era, but is now thriving as a hotel. It's stunning inside.

Here are some pictures I took of the inside. It was a dark cloudy day, and the frescoes and gallery are hard to capture, so I'm lucky they are as good as they are, and yes, I know that's not particularly good.  :)

Ceiling Fresco in New York Palace Salon

Another Ceiling Fresco in New York Hotel Salon

One of the Many Chandeliers in the New York Palace Salon

Imagine eating in this dining room. The ceiling is divided into sections, and each section contains a different fresco. There is a chandelier dividing each section. The walls are sectioned with mirrors.

Here are some pictures of the gallery. These didn't come out well at all but oh well!

Gallery in New York Palace Salon 

Gilded Arches in New York Palace Gallery

Here is a picture of my coffee and pastry sampler! Note the ice creams accompanying the cakes are served on their own little edible chocolate trays. Now that's class!

Chili Coffee at New York Palace Salon 

Pastry Sampler with Ice Cream and Fruit!

That chocolate torte at the end had a chocolate covered hazelnut stuck on top along with some homemade toffee. Which just about broke my false tooth!

And yes, the caption does say Chili Coffee. Don't knock it until you've tried it.

Here is the lobby and the rooms at the Palace.

Floral Display in New York Hotel Lobby 

Atrium and Rooms at New York Palace

Here is the picture Caroline took of the lobby. The hydrangeas were replaced with amaryllis.

New York Palace Lobby During Caroline's Visit

After getting settled we grabbed some coffee at Starbucks---where else?---and did a quick walking tour of Budapest. We walked to the Baslica of Szent Istvan, then headed toward Szabadsag ter (Liberty Square) where we took in the Soviet Monument and the Country Boy Who Opposed Evil. You guessed it. Ronald Reagan. Here is the Basilica.

Basilica of Szent Istvan

Freedom Square

Building in Freedom Square

Detail of Building in Freedom Square

Monument to the Soviet Liberation from the Germans in Freedom Square 

Hungarian Parliament Building from Freedom Square

You will notice the barrier around the Soviet Monument. This is to prevent vandalism. The Soviets are still not popular here, and their liberation of the Hungarians from the Germans is not necessarily remembered in a positive light. Out of the frying pan into the fire, or maybe out of one fire into another would be a better way of putting it.

And now for the Country Boy.

The Country Boy Who Opposed Evil

Ronald Reagan is a very popular figure in Hungary because he made the statement that the Soviet Union was an "Empire of Evil." It's hard to get a picture of his statue where there aren't a lot of gawking tourists around. Caroline has a picture of me with the Country Boy. I'll have to get it from her so I can post it.

We then walked over towards Parliament and after trying to walk on the Danube side of Parliament and being told by the guards we weren't permitted on that side of it, we caught the tram to Margit Hid, and then the 4/6 tram back to Oktagon.

Parliament Dome from Freedom Square 

Hungarian Parliament Building

Parliament with Dome

Parliament Spire

Parliament

After heading back toward Oktagon we had supper at Ket Szerecsen and retired to our Palace.

Saturday

After breakfasting in the Palace Salon (eggs and bacon, don't get too excited) we walked up to Castle Hill and toured the Castle Grounds, the Matyas Templom, and the Fisherman's Bastion.

Buda Castle Gate

Buda Castle Walls

Buda Castle Equestrian Statue

Equestrian Sculpture on Hill

Buda Castle from Pest Side of Danube

Pest from Castle Hill

Here are some shots of the Templom and the Bastion.

The Matyas Templom 

Matyas Templom

Side of Matyas Templom

Fisherman's Bastion

Towers of Fisherman's Bastion

Caroline on the Fisherman's Bastion with Budapest behind Her

Szechenyi Lanchid from Fisherman's Bastion

Margit Hid from Fisherman's Bastion

After all this sight-seeing we were hungry, so we went to a little cafe and had, goulash! Caroline also tried some local pickles, but more on that in the page dedicated to our food.

Earlier in the day Caroline had bought us tickets to the Hop On Hop Off Tour Bus, so we caught it up on Castle Hill and it took us by the Erzsebet Hid, by the Opera, by Heroes' Square, City Park, Keleti, and Deak Ter. We didn't take many pictures, just enjoyed the warmth and the view and the hilarious commentary which included jumping from snippets of Liszt to Michael Jackson. Apparently he envisioned himself as a hero in Heroes' Square.

We had dinner that night with some old friends and then in the AM set off for Vienna, to which the next posting is dedicated. Szia on the flip side!