Duck, Ham, Goulash, and Indian Food-What I Ate in Prague

Yes, it's February and I'm just now finishing up some posts of Prague that should have been finished in November. I've had some trouble uploading images to the blog tool, not to mention that the blur that was my trip back to the States for Christmas fell somewhere in that space of time too. :)

Of all the posts I create, for some reason, the food seems to be what attracts people the most. Even though I only have two loyal "followers" who have actually joined my blog, it seems that a lot of you follow it informally, and I also get a ton of emails from people I don't know commenting on this or that. And of all the comments, emails, etc. it seems that the ones about food seem to attract people the most. Why is that? Maybe because we all have to eat and it's easier for people who don't travel much to relate to what I'm eating than what I'm seeing? Who knows! And for those of you NC friends of mine who aren't checking my blog out, according to the google blog tools, I'm getting hits from Russia, Belaruse, even Estonia. So there!

But I can't let my loyal fan down, so I devote this page to my dining experiences in Prague.

First allow me to say that while Budapest does boast a few good restaurants, international cuisine here is sorely lacking. Budapest isn't like other big cities in that you don't find really good international restaurants. There are no good Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, or Spanish restaurants. There are a couple of places that do a decent job of replicating French cuisine, or French-style cuisine, and there are some good basic Hungarian restaurants, but if you have a hankering for Thai or Indian the best you're going to get is a vague approximation of that country's cuisine. So far I have yet to find too many truly authentic international restaurants in this city. Unless you count the "Torok Etterems", aka, Turkish Kitchens, to which I will have to devote an entire post sometime in the near future.

Prague, on the other hand, boasted a wide array of international restaurants and from the small sampling of them I tried I was impressed. I ate what was probably the best Indian food I have ever had on my last night there. But I digress. Let me begin at the beginning.

The First Night: Marinated Roast Beef with Cream and Bread Dumplings
The first night I was there I asked the manager of the Green Garland if she could recommend a place for me to get some reasonably priced traditional Czech food, and this very sweet and very helpful lady (in other words, I highly recommend the Green Garland) directed me to a little place around the corner from the pension. After snacking on the pretzels they had on the table, which I knew I would be charged for but which I could not resist----nobody can make pretzels like the Germans and the Czechs---I ordered what I understood to be a very traditional Czech dish. It's marinated roast beef in gravy with cream and bread dumplings.

This was preceded by garlic soup, which I also understood was traditional, and a famous Czech hangover cure. I don't know about that, I didn't have a hangover, but it was hot and tasty.

Czech Garlic Soup with Cheese Croutons

And yes, this is a stock photo because I was so tired and hungry from the delays on the train which put me in Prague around 8 PM I forgo to take a picture, tbut it looked just like this. It's a chicken-broth based soup with cheese croutons in it. The soup is flavored with---you guess it---garlic.

Czech Marinated Roast Beef with Cranberries and Cream and Bread Dumplings

The roast beef dish is interesting. It looks like it would be a rich dish because of the gravy, but the roast beef has been marinated in lemon and it has a sour taste. The cream is actually whipped cream that has not been sweetened, with a dab of cranberries. And for those of you who, like me, equate dumplings with the ultimate comfort food, well, these were nothing but big tasteless stodge bombs. The bread dumplings are actually made of bread dough that has been allowed to rise, then it's half baked and then boiled then sliced off into dumplings. They have no taste whatsoever, and even the gravy, which I normally find improves most anything, doesn't do much to liven them up. I can imagine that when people didn't have a lot to eat in the days before refrigerators and microwaves, and when it was very cold and you needed some fuel, this might have done the trick, tasteless though they might be.

Day 1: St. Martin's Day Fair and the Bohemian Platter

I discovered the next day, my first full day there, that there was a St. Martin's Day festival going on in Old Town Square. St. Martin's Day was a week away and apparently the festivities were going on all week. This was actually wonderful because there was a lot of really delicious traditional food being prepared there, and it was cheap. Also, for someone like me who enjoys lingering over a meal with a friend or loved one, it was a little less lonely to be snacking on delicious Prague specialities in a busy fair setting, people watching, than sitting alone in a restaurant wishing I had company.

I was starving when I got back from my Hop On Hop Off Tour, and the grilled sausages smelled so good I jumped right into line and ordered a grilled sausage on a baguette. Here I am holding it before I starting shoveling it in.

Sausage and Baguette at the St. Martin's Day Fair

The next thing I tried was the goulash. For those of you who think goulash is a Hungarian dish, the word goulash comes from the Hungarian, but goulash and goulash soup are prepared all over that part of Europe from Germany and Austria to Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia. This was particularly tasty and very hot which was nice because it was a cloud and gloomy day.

Goulash at the Fair

And Melinda's hand makes another appearance, holding a bowl of goulash!

At this point I was full enough I couldn't have held another bite if I had wanted to, which was actually a shame because there were ham vendors, grilling whole Prague Hams. It's amazing to me how smoked pork strikes a chord with people from regions as vastly different as Eastern North Carolina to Hungary to Prague. Prague is actually famous for this ham, hence the name, but it's just a good smoked ham cooked on the grill. My Granddaddy would have loved it.

Here are some of the smoked ham stalls. You can see I'm not the only one who had the idea of taking some photographs. This one guy is filming it. They were serving it up either as a giant slab on a piece of bread, or a huge slab on a plate with some grilled potatoes and onions. And it had the skin and fat on it, just like Granddaddy likes it.

Wood-grilled Prague Ham in the Square

I'm Not the Only One Taking Pictures

Mmm Mmm Good

That evening I was wandering around, thinking I should eat somewhere that served duck, since the Czech people consume an inordinate amount of duck. I wandered around, and after digging around in a really cool vintage clothing store where I bought some cool shades and bought Jimmy some shirts and sweaters, I noticed a cute little Prague kitchen and decided I would eat supper there.

I was seated next to an Indian Man and a Japanese man, both of whom were communicating in the common language of them both, English. The Japanese man was rather taciturn while the Indian man, who I learned was married to a Czech woman, wouldn't shut up.

Among other things, he told the joke I'd heard before which is that if Australians are hungry they'll eat everything on the table and then eat the table itself. Americans will eat everything on the table and the table itself, provided it has ketchup on it.

I had to snicker to myself, because I've never seen so many people eating ketchup as I have in the 7 months I've been in Hungary. There is a take-out pizza window near my house and I see Hungarian people slathering ketchup all over pizza slices almost every day. You can actually smell the ketchup when you walk down that part of the street. And they have something here which is so disgusting I almost can't take about it, which is ketchup flavored potato chips and ketchup flavored Chee Toes. UGH. I have actually seen teenagers on the train, on at least three different occasions, eating ketchup flavored Chee Toes followed by milk. In one case I had to watch these two teens make out after eating ketchup flavored Chee Toes chased by milk. I still want to vomit!

I ordered the Bohemian plate just to get a smattering of Czech dishes. The food wasn't bad, but it reminds me of eating Southern food at a place like Dips in Chapel Hill. It's okay, but it ain't as good as what Grandma makes. I have a feeling all the Czech food in these restaurants is like that----okay, but it might be really good if a really good cook prepared it in their home.

The Bohemian plate contained a slab of Prague ham, roast pork, a roasted duck leg, cabbage, bread dumplings, and potato pancakes. The duck was so so---rather tough. The ham was delicious, as was the pork. The cabbage was okay. I skipped the bread dumplings but I did eat the potato pancake which was super. It was followed by strudel which was also super.

The Bohemian Plate

Day 2-The Moulerie

On my second full day there, which is the day I visited the John Lennon Wall and the Jewish Quarter, I snacked on a slice of pizza from a take-out window for lunch for the sake of both money and convenience, and so for supper I decided to treat myself and try a Belgian moulerie in Josefov which came highly recommend. For those of you who have never eaten in a moulerie you don't know what you are missing. Boy am I glad I'm not allergic to shell fish! There is a really good one in Lyon that I would beam myself over to now and again if I had the ability.

I ordered the moules marinieres, which is mussels prepared with fennel, onion, and cream, which is the traditional method of preparation. They always come with frites which are usually delicious. I was not disappointed. I also had a tomato salad and an olive baguette. Also traditional.

Les Moules Marinieres 

Les Frites

Olive Baguettes

Yes, I'm guilty of using stock photos again, but my food looked identical to this. The restaurant was way too dark for me to take photographs.

Day 3-Dessert in the Square

The Castle and the Mala Strana

The Charles

Stare Mesto, Mala Strana and Josefov

 Ciao!

I'm finally getting around to posting more Praha pics.

On day 2 in Prague I walked around Mala Strana and Josefov, but the day began with a trip to Old Town Square. Old Town is also called Stare Mesto. Pretty much every day began here. There was a big street fair going on for St. Martin's Day, with food and wine and people everywhere, and between that, and the crowds gathering to see the astronomical clock, it was pretty happenin'.

Here are some shots of the square that morning as well as some interesting things I saw on the way to the square.

Church Near My Pension

Lenin Restaurant

Ready for a Revolution with Hammer, Sickle, Beer, Duck, and Dumplings

Antique Touring Cars

Tyn Church Towers from Across Square

Painted Details on a Building Front in Old Town Square

Row of Painted Buildings Flanking the Clock in Old Town Square

Red Building

Window Details

Building Facing the Clock in Old Town Square

I find I have no trouble walking amidst buildings like this and imagining that I'm walking through the square 600 years ago. I felt like the architecture was that evocative of the past.

Prague has an astronomical clock in Old Town Square, and the hoards gather to watch it. I recall seeing the one in Strasbourg as a child, and being amongst the hoards in Munich to watch the one there. It's funny how many people will drag a tripod into a crowded public place, while on vacation. More power to them.  ;)

Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square

Close Up of Astronomical Clock

Old Town Square is really beautiful and striking (no pun intended) despite the crowds and the tripods. One rounds the corner into the Square and sees the striking towers of the Our Lady of Tyn Church. The Town Hall, which houses the clock, has a similar tower with the pointy black spires on it. The buildings in the square are a rainbow of colors---yellow, black, sand, red, many with figures painted on them or built into the stone work.

The clock is fascinating and I almost regret I don't possess a tripod and the requisite photographic skills to do it justice. The clock face is flanked by carved wooden figures of kings, saints, and a skeleton. In Medieval art the skeleton and the skull always represent the transitory nature of our life here on Earth. The clock face depicts the sun and moon and planets. Here are some shots of the clock details including the skeleton.

Figures Flaking the Astronomical Clock

Dancing Skeleton Flanking the Clock Face

Details of Carving On Clock

Immediately before striking the hour music plays and the figures on the front dance and turn back and forth in their places. Then the clock strikes, and a person dressed as a Renaissance trumpeter who blows a coronet from the balcony to the ooohs and awes of the spectators. It's quite a sight, touristy thought it may be. People who believe that technological achievements belong to the modern age have never seen one of these clocks. It reminds me that man has always possessed talent and skill, and the people who think the statues on Easter Island were put there by aliens because "humans couldn't have been that advanced way back then" just don't realize what human beings have always been capable of. Intelligence and ingenuity doesn't belong only to the 20th century.

After this trip into the Square, which happened to coincide, quite accidentally, with the striking of the clock. After witnessing an example of man's ingenuity I walked to Mala Strana.

Mala Strana
Mala Strana is the neighborhood across the Vltava River from Old Town. It's at the base of the hill where the castle is and it's home to something known as the John Lennon Wall which is where I made my pilgrimage.

Getting to Mala Strana entailed crossing the Vltava, and I chose to do this on one of Prague's most famous institutions, the Charles Bridge. This pedestrian bridge was the first bridge across the Vltava River, and it was built by Emperor Charles the IV. I understand it was called "the bridge" until other bridges were built, and then at that time it became known as the Charles.

The bridge is like a circus, carnival and street fair all rolled into one. Vendors come out to sell their wares, street performers dance, sing, and play the violin. Beggars sit prostrate on the ground with their caps in front of them hoping for some coins. It's a fun place to hang out even thought it is pretty touristy. It can get pretty crowded at times. Here are some shots of the bridge and the river that I took while crossing over to the Mala Strana.

Charles Bridge Tower in Stare Mesto

Charles Bridge Tower

Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge

Prague Castle

Crowds on the Charles

The Vltava Looking Towards Mala Strana

An Organ Grinder on the Charles Bridge

The Mala Strana

The Czech people are great lovers and art and music and John Lennon is something of a hero due both to his amazing talent as a songwriter and musician as well as his pacifist activities and beliefs. Remember the bed-in for peace?

The story goes that after John Lennon's assassination on December 8, 1980, a painting of him appeared on a wall in the Mala Strana, soon followed by graffiti honoring him. The Communist government opposed to this display and had it removed. It sprang up again, and once again it was removed. This continued to happen and it seems nothing could be done to keep these images off the wall. This went on until finally any attempts to remove it were abandoned.

The John Lennon Wall is on a quiet little street that heads down towards the river. There are some beautiful trees nearby and when I visited it there were people walking there dogs quietly in front of it. It is a very peaceful and inspiring sight. Imagine.

Beautiful Trees Approaching the John Lennon Wall

John Lennon Poster in Someone's Window

The Original John Lennon Painting that Would Not Disappear

It's a very peaceful, beautiful, and interesting spot. Quite fitting.

Here are some closeups of the trees and of leaves on the ground.

Imagine All the People Sharing All the World

I wandered around the Mala Strana little bit longer, then mosied back towards the bridge, snacked on a slice of pizza that cost about 35 cents and then went back to the pension to regroup. It was really crowded and the sun kept going behind the clouds, but I took a few pictures of some buildings and statues in this neighborhood.

Church in Mala Strana 

Statue in Male Strana

Here are some more pictures of the river which I crossed to get back to the pension.

Vendor in Front of Charlest Bridge Tower

 A little later I headed out again and wandered around Josefov, which is the old Jewish Quarter. It was getting dark and I didn't get to search out as many sites as I would have liked, but I did locate the old synagogue, which was closed, but I got some shots of the cemetery through the gate. It's very old and the graves are piled up almost on top of one another. I would like to go back and explore the graveyard itself.

Here is the synagogue and the cemetery.

Old Synagogue in Prague 

Gravestones Piled One On Top of the Other in the Old Jewish Cemetery

After supper I wandered around through Josefov, past all the chic stores that you find everywhere from Mid-Town Manhattan to Paris, and back through Old Town Square towards the pension. I lingered in the square to watch some of the festivities then headed back to hit the sack and get ready for another day.