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Saturday 3 September 2011

Eztergom Part 2-The Linear Description

Hello Readers,

I can't seem to get away from my background in data.  Linear analysis is what this post is all about.  I gave my impressions of Esztergom in a previous post, this post will step you day by day through my two and a half day experience there.  And yes, I know you guys are hanging onto the edges of your seats for a blow by blow account of my experience in Esztergom.

I will bet that you didn't expect my trip to Esztergom NOT to have started in Esztergom. Well it didn't.  It started in Esztergom-Kertvaros.  Yes, Melinda got off the train at the wrong stop.

The station came into view and I saw Esztergom on the sign, and I swear, the entire train disembarked.  So, I leaped off.  I had barely crossed the tracks and rounded the station building when I had a horrible sinking feeling that I was NOT in Esztergom. The dusty empty road in front of me, the lack of hills, the lack of steeples or a basilica were definite signifiers that I was NOT where I needed to be.

I have tried very hard to speak Hungarian, but I will admit at that moment, my small amount of Hungarian failed me, and I walked up to the lone soul at the station and pleaded to the young girl sitting there, "Do you speak English?"  She did.  Thank goodness for the educational system in this country which seems to have schooled everyone from the 80's on in basic English. Thank you Jesus!

She explained I was in a little town west of Esztergom. I assumed the next train would come SOON, since I knew the trains from Budapest to Esztergom left every hour.  So, I sat.  I had to pee really bad, but I sat.  And sat.  And sat.  And then I sat some more.

The girl left, explaining she had forgotten her backpack at school.  I was sitting there alone, watching a crop duster and the corn blow in the breeze. I reminded myself that this pastoral environment was peaceful after spending 7 weeks in a city. I had to keep reminding myself.  :)

I could have sworn no one was around.  At all.  I've never heard such deadly silence, except for the almost ominous sound of a crop duster, probably rendered so by my recollection of Cary Grant's experience in North By NorthWest.  INSERT PHOTO!!!!!!!!  (Let's face it, we should all consider ourselves lucky and should be grateful to look on his gorgeous frame whenever we have the chance!)


So where were we after that gorgeous interlude? Ah, yes, peaceful pastoral surroundings.  I was sitting there, patiently awaiting the arrival of the next train, when I heard this sound:  cachink, cachink, cachink, cachink.  It was coming closer, and closer.  I felt like I was in a David Lynch movie.  A cowboy in full Texas regalia rounded the corner, down to the steel tipped boots and spurs.  He didn't look to the left or to the right.  He simply strutted from out of nowhere, and continued to strut off into nowhere.  Weird-o-rama.

Wrong Station

As I sat there, a small collection of people started to show up. I began to feel hopeful---maybe I wasn't as out in the middle of nowhere as I had thought.  Surely if people are showing up a train must be in the vicinity.

The little station, which appeared to be as locked up and as dead as could be, suddenly came to life. Someone made an announcement in Hungarian on the loudspeaker, and a middle-aged woman wearing a red conductor's cap and carrying a little green sign walked out. A train pulled up, going in the opposite direction of where I needed to be going, but the sight of a train and the bustling activity at the station that had been completely dead just minutes before was a cheerful sight.

Esztergom Kertvaros Station Master



A few minutes later another announcement came on.  I got excited, but this time it was a tiny train, only about one car in length, heading somewhere, but not in my direction.



Finally my train came. Yay!  I had waited exactly one hour. I hopped aboard and in about 15 minutes we were in Esztergom.  Here is a picture of some Hungarian corn fields we passed along the way. They look like American cornfields don't they?  Here, if you see anything in the grocery store labeled "Mexican" it means it has corn in it.
Hungarian Cornfields

Arriving in Esztergom was wonderful, although I knew deciphering the google maps directions to my guest house might be a challenge. And it was.

Esztergom Station
Google maps screwed me on the directions, but I finally got to my guest house.  It was hot as the dickens and I was in a tiny little room with a window no bigger than my face. I escaped as soon as I could to a cafe to hydrate, then started exploring.

The town is full of one or two story buildings that are painted pastel colors---pink, yellow, blue, pale green. I wound my way along the more modern main street to the little village area.

Walking Towards the Old Part of Esztergom
Notice the Empty Niche?

I saw a lot of run down buildings that you can tell used to be very beautiful. You also see some sights that I like to call the effects of socialism.  :)

Esztergom Shack
The Lingering Effects of Socialism
Finally, after walking a little way, I started to get into the old downtown area, which is called Watertown. The streets are narrow, the buildings are in somewhat better shape, and everything winds down towards the Little Danube and across a small bridge onto Primate Island. At first I thought there was a monkey house there, but the name refers to the Primate of the Church.  :)




After you wind your way down towards the Little Danube, but before you cross it, there is an old Italianate Church, a religious statue, and a little square of sorts.

Watertown Italianate Church





Religious Statue in Old Esztergom

View of Watertown and Basilica

After passing the old church and the religious statue in the square you cross the bridge onto Primate Island.

Little Danube Looking Towards the Danube

Little Danube Going Towards Town

This just about covers my first day there except for dinner which will be a separate post. I went back to my guest house after supper and read a lot of Jane Austen before I could fall asleep in that hot little room. After a breakfast of bologna and rolls and espresso, which I felt like I had to eat since my hosts had clearly prepared it just for me, I was ready to start my next day in Esztergom, including a trip to Slovenka. Read on!




























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