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Tuesday 4 October 2011

Eger

Szia!

A few days after I got back from Romania I visited the town of Eger, which has the distinction of having the northernmost Turkish minaret in Europe. My friend Thomas is a professor at the University there so we took the train together that morning and I spent the night in a hotel owned by the University. It's only about two hours from Budapest. It was an ill fated trip. Thomas was recovering from a stomach bug, it poured rain, I had worn bad sneakers and slipped and slid all over the cobblestoned streets and castle ramparts, and I ended up sick the next morning and had to head back to Budapest early. That being said, Eger is a pretty cool little town, and I got some really cool photographs after the rain slacked off. I hope to return there soon on a prettier day and take some more pictures and explore a few things I missed the first time around.

I think Eger is probably one of the prettiest places I've been in Hungary so far. Instead of the Soviet nightmare that surrounds most train stations, we disembarked onto a beautiful tree lined street, and crossed through a gorgeous park full of horse chestnut trees to get to the campus. I didn't get any pictures of that area because it was absolutely pouring when we got off the train and walked towards campus. After I checked into the hotel the rain slacked off into a fine mist so I was able to take some pictures as I walked into the downtown and towards the castle.

Here is my first glimpse of the streets of Eger.

Streets of Eger

Eger

Eger Heading Towards Dobo Ter
All the little streets head towards Dobo Ter and KisDobo Ter. That's Dobo Square and Little Dobo Square to you and me.

Here is the square and the church in the square.

Dobo Ter Eger 
Church in Dobo Ter

Front of Church in Dobo Ter
Eger, like many other Hungarian towns, was attacked by the Turks, and has a story to go along with it. The story is Eger is that during the Turkish siege, the women of Eger poured boiling oil over the city walls onto the Turks who were storming the city. The men drank red wine which ran down their beards and onto their tunics staining them, and causing the Turks to think it was bull's blood. There is a wine from the Eger region called Bull's Blood. I've been told it's terrible.

This is a statue depicting the women and men of Eger fighting off the Turks.

Statue Commemorating Victory Over the Turks
Look at that Horse Rearing

Another Shot of the Rearing Horse

Eger Reins Victorious

Women Pouring Boiling Oil

The Brave Women of Eger
After checking out the statue I walked up to the castle. My understanding is that the castle was largely destroyed by the Austrians in an attack on the city. I'm not that familiar with this part of Hungary's history but I believe there were many uprisings against the Hapsbourg Empire and it was typically Austrian troops who came in to crush the rebellion. Sadly enough, they destroyed many fortifications, thus leaving these cities unfortified against attacks from Hungary's age-old enemies, the Turks.

On my way to the castle I crossed over a canal with some pretty flowers growing on the banks.

Flowers on the Banks of Eger Canal

Eger Canal in the Rain
And then I wound my way through the little streets up towards the castle.

Entering Eger Castle 
Closeup of Tower at Eger Castle
Despite the rain you could see some pretty good views of the town from the castle.

Inside the Walls of Eger Castle

Church from Eger Castle Walls

Town from Eger Castle Walls

Here are some shots of the gate and the canons as you approach the keep.

Gate at Eger Castle

Cannon at Eger Castle

Another Cannon
This castle isn't nearly as cool as the castle I grew up visiting in Germany, but I'm willing to suppose that perhaps if the Austrians hadn't done what they did it would look a little cooler?

Here are some shots inside the walls.

Inside Castle Walls 
Tents Inside Walls
It's not easy to see but in this shot the minaret is in the distance.

Here is a tower in the castle wall.

Tower

Lookout
Trees Inside Castle Wall 
Small Cemetery in Castle Walls
They had these funny wooden horses for kids to ride on. I would have ridden one if it hadn't been so wet.

Wooden Horses
Here is the well.

Well Inside Eger Castle

Inside of Well
At the heart of the castle were some Gothic buildings that housed a small museum.

Museum Building Inside Castle

Another Museum Building
Here are some vaulted gothic ceilings in the museum walkways.

Arched Walkway 
Gothic Arches
Here is a fountain in the courtyard.

Fountain 
Fountain in Courtyard
Here is some lavender growing in the courtyard and a tree displaying its autumn colors.

Castle Herb Garden

Horse Chestnut Tree in Eger Castle
After leaving the castle I was thoroughly soaked and had just about broken my leg three times wandering around the slick ramparts in my worn out sneakers. I had no idea it was going to pour that day or I would have chosen better shoes.

I went back to the hotel and changed and then wandered around town some more. I ended up eating lunch in the square and people watching. Since Eger is a college town I got to see sights that were typical of a college campus anywhere, from the guy in the square playing the guitar to the Hare Krishna seeking converts.

I ate lunch somewhere called Francesca's. I ordered grilled chicken to be on the safe side but the server recommended chicken with mushrooms and "Duchess potatoes." Here are the Duchess. They were little poofs of mashed potatoes that had been fried. Jimmy would have detected onions in the mix.

Caprese Salad at Francesca's

Chicken and Mushrooms with Duchess Potatoes
Church in the Sunshine

Hare Krishna in Eger

Hare Krishna Hare Krishna
I ate lunch about 2:30 so it was close to 4 when I finished. I wandered around town and people watched, shopped around for lady's hats (didn't buy anything) and then when the sky started to get dark sought shelter in my hotel where I finished a book and went to bed early. Yeah, traveling alone is so exciting!

Next trip I'll climb the minaret and see the college's camera obscura.

Szia!


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